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A signature Isan dish · eaten across the country · Sides and grilled dishes

Som Tam

Som Tam · ส้มตำ

If you want something crunchy and tangy, try som tam. It is a salad made by cutting unripe papaya into thin strips and pounding it with seasoning in a mortar. The papaya soaks up sourness and heat, and it goes well with sticky rice or grilled food. In Isan some versions use a fermented fish seasoning, so if the smell of fermentation is unfamiliar, ask which kind of som tam it is when you order.

Photo of som tam
Som tam · example dish
Som Tam green papaya salad, Bangkok, Thailand · Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0
Resized for display

What does it taste like?

Sour and spicy seasoning blends with the crunch of papaya. In the versions that use pla ra, a fermented fish seasoning, you can also notice the smell of fermentation. Even with the same som tam, the taste differs with how the seasoning and chilli are used.

If you want less heat, say so before it is made.

Dish basics

Dish name
Som Tam · Som Tam
Thai name
ส้มตำ
Type
Sides and grilled dishes
Region
North-east · Isan · A signature Isan dish · eaten across the country
Main ingredients
Unripe papaya seasoned with chilli and souring ingredients. Peanuts, dried shrimp and fermented fish seasoning depend on the kind of som tam.

The dish and its region

Som tam is a signature dish of Isan and is eaten in many Thai cities. Even within Isan, each area has different kinds, so you can compare the taste of som tam just as regional cooking differs across India. On a Khon Kaen trip, have it with sticky rice and other Isan dishes.

How to order and eat it

  1. Choose the kind of som tam and ask whether a fermented fish seasoning such as pla ra goes in.
  2. If you want less heat, say so before it is made. Once the papaya has been pounded with the seasoning, it is hard to take out only the chilli.
  3. Order sticky rice and other dishes together and eat a little of each at a time. You get a different meal from eating papaya alone.

Frequently asked questions

Does som tam taste the same wherever you eat it?

No. The chilli and seasoning used and the way of adding sweetness differ. If the smell of fermentation is unfamiliar, it helps to ask first whether pla ra goes in.

It is a papaya salad, so is it vegetarian?

Not necessarily. Some kinds use fish seasoning or dried shrimp. If you are vegetarian, ask whether the seasoning and toppings other than papaya can be eaten.

More dishes and cities to explore

Official sources and references

If you want to read more about these dishes and regions, these sources are a good place to start. Ingredients and cooking methods can differ from one eatery to another.


View official sources · 2
  1. Tourism Authority of Thailand · Isan food culture ↗
  2. Tourism Authority of Thailand · Signature dishes by region ↗

Sharing image credit: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0