Skip to main content
A signature Isan dish · eaten across the country · Sides & grilled

Som Tam (Papaya Salad)

Som Tam · ส้มตำ

If you want something crunchy and tangy, try som tam. It is a salad made by shredding unripe papaya and pounding it with seasoning in a mortar. Sourness and heat soak into the papaya, and it goes well with sticky rice or grilled dishes. In Isan, some versions include a fermented fish seasoning, so if the fermented aroma is unfamiliar, ask which kind of som tam it is when you order.

Photo of som tam
Som tam · example dish
Som Tam green papaya salad, Bangkok, Thailand · Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0
Resized for display

What does it taste like?

Sour and spicy seasoning meets the crunch of papaya. In versions with pla ra, a fermented fish seasoning, you can also taste a fermented aroma. Even with the same som tam, the taste changes with how the seasoning and chilies are used.

If you want less heat, say so before it is made.

Dish basics

Dish name
Som Tam (Papaya Salad) · Som Tam
Thai name
ส้มตำ
Type
Sides & grilled
Region
Northeastern Thailand (Isan) · A signature Isan dish · eaten across the country
Key ingredients
Unripe papaya seasoned with chilies and a sour ingredient. Peanuts, shrimp and fermented fish seasoning depend on the kind of som tam.

The dish and where it comes from

Som tam is a signature Isan dish and is eaten in many cities across Thailand. Even within Isan, each area has a different kind, so you can compare som tam much as you might compare regional barbecue styles. On a trip to Khon Kaen, eat it with sticky rice and other Isan dishes.

How to order and eat it

  1. Choose the kind of som tam and ask whether it uses a fermented fish seasoning such as pla ra.
  2. If you want less heat, say so before it is made. Once the papaya has been pounded with the seasoning, it is hard to take out just the chilies.
  3. Order sticky rice and other dishes with it and eat a little at a time. You get a different meal from eating papaya alone.

Frequently asked questions

Does som tam taste the same wherever you eat it?

No. The chilies, the seasonings and the way sweetness is added differ. If the aroma of fermentation is unfamiliar, it helps to ask first whether pla ra goes in.

It is a papaya salad, so is it vegetarian?

Not necessarily. Some kinds use fish seasoning or shrimp. If you are vegetarian, ask whether you can eat the seasoning and toppings as well as the papaya.

More dishes and cities to explore

Official sources and references

If you want to read more about the food and the regions behind it, these sources are a good place to start. Ingredients and recipes can vary from one restaurant to the next.


View official sources · 2
  1. Tourism Authority of Thailand · Isan food culture ↗
  2. Tourism Authority of Thailand · Signature regional dishes ↗

Sharing image credit: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0