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Signature Isan dish · eaten across the country · Sides and grilled dishes

Som tam

Som Tam · ส้มตำ

If you want something crunchy and tangy, try som tam. It is a salad of shredded unripe papaya pounded in a mortar with seasonings. The papaya takes on sour and spicy flavors and goes well with sticky rice or grilled food. In Isan some versions use a fermented fish seasoning, so if the fermented aroma is unfamiliar, ask what kind of som tam it is when you order.

Photo of som tam
Som tam · example photo of the dish
Som Tam green papaya salad, Bangkok, Thailand · Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0
Resized for display

What does it taste like?

The crunch of papaya meets a sour, spicy dressing. In versions that use plara, a fermented fish seasoning, you can also notice a fermented aroma. Even with the same som tam, the taste changes with the way the seasonings and chilies are used.

If you want less heat, say so before it is made.

Dish basics

Dish name
Som tam · Som Tam
Thai name
ส้มตำ
Type
Sides and grilled dishes
Regional link
Northeastern Thailand · Isan · Signature Isan dish · eaten across the country
Main ingredients
Unripe papaya is dressed with chilies and sour ingredients. Peanuts, shrimp and fermented fish seasoning depend on the kind of som tam.

The dish and its region

Som tam is Isan's signature dish and is eaten in many Thai cities. Even within Isan there are different kinds from place to place, so you can compare the taste of som tam from one town to another. On a trip to Khon Kaen, try it with sticky rice and other Isan dishes.

How to order and eat it

  1. Choose the kind of som tam and ask whether it uses a fermented fish seasoning such as plara.
  2. If you want less heat, say so before it is made. Once the papaya has been pounded with the seasonings, it is hard to take out just the chili.
  3. Order sticky rice and other dishes together and have a little at a time. You get a meal that is different from eating papaya alone.

Frequently asked questions

Does som tam taste the same everywhere?

No. The chilies, the seasonings and the way sweetness is added differ. If the fermented aroma is unfamiliar, it helps to ask first whether plara is used.

It is a papaya salad, so is it vegetarian?

Not necessarily. Some kinds use fish seasoning or shrimp. If you are vegetarian, ask whether the dressing and the toppings are suitable as well as the papaya.

More dishes and cities to explore

Official sources

If you want to read more about the food and the regions behind it, these sources are a good next step. Ingredients and cooking methods can differ from one place to the next.


View official sources · 2
  1. Tourism Authority of Thailand · Isan food culture ↗
  2. Tourism Authority of Thailand · Signature dishes by region ↗

Sharing image credit: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0